Friday, September 10, 2021

異域

 

西貢外島一個荒涼灘岸,秘密在浪濤中水深及胸處

無人海岸線中,有種聲音,第一次遇上。

走到荒島沿岸,我常會留意卵石灘上,潮浪掃過、如一顆顆葡萄大小的卵石碰撞時清脆又輕柔的撞擊聲;若浪濤輕重與卵石大小匹配,全灘滑溜的卵石輕輕在浪花中滾動幾毫米,那聲音悅耳動聽,是洗滌心靈的天籟之音。

這處不一樣。

地點是東海島嶼沙塘口山東南方一個無名灘頭,孤獨海岸線,位處偏僻,又長年大浪,灘岸石頭圓圓的,體積較一般大,如小西瓜一樣。這裡荒涼無人,沒有景點,只有海上垃圾。

有天「綑邊」時,我們游泳渡海,在這灘頭靠岸,在水深及胸口之處,大浪中載浮載沉時,聽到一記又一記沉重的骨碌骨碌聲;我一頭栽進水底張望,見巨浪衝擊中,水底的圓石四下漂移,如隕石飄浮太空,相互碰撞,海水過濾響聲,傳來扭曲的敲擊音韻。

再一個狂浪襲來,力度剛好掀起了整個海床的巨大卵石,一同滾動,環迴立體隆隆聲,轟轟作響,仿若地動山搖地殼崩裂;較小的石塊隨水流飛舞,繼續互相敲擊悶響,石頭在你眼前漂來漂去,又似盤古初開蠻荒異域。

我在淺灘的大浪中浮潛,欣賞這幕大自然好戲,捨不得離開。要浪濤的力量與大石的重量恰到好處,巨浪又不致於太危險,才有機會觀賞大石漂浮這神奇一幕。我想起英國荒誕小說作家 Douglas Adams 所寫的「宇宙毀滅時的餐廳」(Restaurant at the End of the Universe),這家餐廳位處宇宙毀滅一刻的時空,人們一邊飲紅酒吃牛排,一邊觀賞窗外宇宙毀滅一刻的璀璨光芒。

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(警告:這些亂石灘頭,不擅大海泅泳者絕對不宜落水,特別是大浪中更要小心,必須穿著助浮衣、帶備呼吸管等浮潛裝備,上述景像很罕見,可遇不可求,筆者綑邊多時,只碰巧見過一次。)

(本文原刊於明報專2047)

相關文章:暗湧潛行 巨浪滔天

 

 

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